A home inspection is your single best opportunity to understand what you are actually buying before the deal becomes final. Here is what a qualified inspector examines, what the most expensive problems look like, and how to use the report to protect yourself.
What a standard inspection covers
Exterior
| Area | What the Inspector Checks | Common Issues Found |
|---|---|---|
| Roof | Shingle condition, flashing, vents, gutters, estimated remaining life | Curling/missing shingles, improper flashing, clogged gutters |
| Foundation | Cracks, settlement, moisture penetration, grading | Horizontal cracks (structural concern), efflorescence (mineral deposits from water), negative grading |
| Siding/exterior walls | Material condition, caulking, paint, damage | Rotting wood, damaged vinyl, gaps allowing water entry |
| Windows and doors | Seal integrity, operation, weatherstripping | Failed seals (fogging between panes), drafts, wood rot |
| Grading and drainage | Slope away from foundation, downspout direction | Soil grading toward foundation (invites water problems) |
| Driveway and walkways | Cracks, heaving, trip hazards | Frost heave, tree root damage |
| Decks and porches | Structure, railing height, ledger board connection | Improper attachment to house (collapse risk), rotting supports |
Roof (detailed)
| Component | What’s Checked | Average Remaining Life |
|---|---|---|
| Asphalt shingles | Granule loss, curling, missing tabs | 15–25 years total; inspector estimates remaining |
| Metal roof | Corrosion, fastener condition, flashing | 40–60 years |
| Flat roof (modified bitumen) | Ponding water, membrane cracks, flashing | 15–20 years |
| Flashing | Around chimneys, vents, skylights, valleys | Should be intact with no gaps |
| Soffit and fascia | Ventilation, animal entry, rot | Ongoing maintenance item |
Structure and foundation
| What’s Checked | Why It Matters | Red Flags |
|---|---|---|
| Foundation walls | Support the entire house | Horizontal cracks (bowing), step cracks wider than 1/4 inch, water staining |
| Floor joists and beams | Carry all floor loads | Sagging, rot, notched or cut joists (weakened), insect damage |
| Load-bearing walls | Transfer weight to foundation | Removed or modified without engineering (visible in basement) |
| Settlement | Natural settling vs structural failure | Doors that won’t close, sloping floors, diagonal cracks at window corners |
Plumbing
| Component | What’s Checked | Common Issues |
|---|---|---|
| Supply pipes | Material (copper, PEX, galvanized, poly-B), condition, water pressure | Galvanized steel (corrrosion, reduced flow), poly-B (prone to failure), lead connections |
| Drain/waste pipes | Material, proper slope, visible leaks | Cast iron corrosion, ABS joint failures, improper slope |
| Water heater | Age, condition, safety valve, venting | Average life 8–12 years; past life = replacement soon |
| Fixtures | Faucets, toilets, showers — operation and leaks | Running toilets, slow drains, leaking supply lines |
| Main shut-off | Location and operation | Seized or inaccessible valve |
Electrical
| Component | What’s Checked | Red Flags |
|---|---|---|
| Panel | Brand, amperage, condition, breaker types | Federal Pacific or Zinsco panels (fire risk — may need full replacement), undersized service (60A for a large home) |
| Wiring type | Copper, aluminum, knob-and-tube | Knob-and-tube (uninsurable without upgrade, $10K–$20K to replace), aluminum (requires special connections) |
| Outlets and switches | Grounding, GFCI in wet areas, operation | Ungrounded outlets, missing GFCI near water (kitchen, bathroom, exterior), double-tapped breakers |
| Smoke/CO detectors | Presence, location, operation | Missing or expired detectors |
| Service size | 100A, 200A | 60A service may be insufficient for modern homes and hard to insure |
HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning)
| Component | What’s Checked | Average Lifespan |
|---|---|---|
| Furnace | Age, operation, heat exchanger, venting | 15–25 years |
| Air conditioner | Age, operation, refrigerant lines | 15–20 years |
| Ductwork | Condition, insulation, connections | Ongoing — check for disconnections in attic |
| Thermostat | Operation, programming | — |
| HRV/ERV | Heat/energy recovery ventilator condition | 15–20 years |
| Fireplace/chimney | Damper, flue condition, clearances | Annual cleaning recommended |
Interior
| Area | What’s Checked | Common Issues |
|---|---|---|
| Walls and ceilings | Cracks, water stains, bulging | Water stains on ceilings (active roof or plumbing leak), diagonal cracks (settlement) |
| Floors | Level, damage, squeaks | Sloping floors (structural), water damage near bathrooms/kitchen |
| Bathrooms | Caulking, ventilation, tile condition, moisture | Missing exhaust fan, deteriorating caulk (water behind walls), soft flooring (subfloor water damage) |
| Kitchen | Appliance operation, ventilation, plumbing | Appliances at end of life, no range hood vent to exterior |
| Attic | Insulation depth, ventilation, moisture, rodent activity | Insufficient insulation, bathroom fans venting into attic (moisture), ice dam indicators |
| Basement | Moisture, efflorescence, sump pump, radon | Water staining, musty smell, no sump pump in high-water-table area |
What inspectors do NOT check
| Not Included in Standard Inspection | Why | Additional Test Available |
|---|---|---|
| Inside walls (behind drywall) | Inspection is visual and non-invasive | Thermal imaging ($200–$350) can detect moisture and insulation gaps |
| Radon levels | Requires 48+ hour test | Radon test ($150–$200) |
| Mould testing (air quality) | Requires lab analysis | Mould air quality test ($300–$600) |
| Asbestos identification | Requires lab sample analysis | Asbestos testing ($200–$400 per sample) |
| Vermiculite insulation testing | May contain asbestos — requires lab | Sample sent to lab ($200–$300) |
| Buried oil tank | Cannot be seen visually | Ground-penetrating radar ($500–$1,500) |
| Well water quality | Requires lab testing | Water test ($100–$300) |
| Septic system inspection | Requires pumping and camera | Septic inspection ($300–$500) |
| Pool and hot tub | Often excluded from standard inspection | Pool inspection ($200–$400) |
| Pest/termite inspection | Specialist required — inspectors note evidence but don’t confirm | Pest inspection ($200–$350) |
Deal-breaking issues and estimated repair costs
| Issue | Severity | Estimated Repair Cost | What to Do |
|---|---|---|---|
| Foundation failure (horizontal cracks, bowing walls) | Critical | $15,000–$80,000 | Walk away or negotiate major credit |
| Knob-and-tube wiring (full house) | Major | $10,000–$20,000 | Many insurers will not insure; lenders may not finance |
| Roof replacement needed | Major | $8,000–$25,000 | Negotiate credit or price reduction |
| Federal Pacific electrical panel | Major (fire hazard) | $3,000–$5,000 | Non-negotiable — must be replaced |
| Active water intrusion in basement | Major | $5,000–$30,000 (depending on source) | Determine source before making a decision |
| Mould remediation (large area) | Major | $5,000–$30,000 | Determine extent and source |
| Galvanized plumbing (whole house) | Moderate–Major | $8,000–$15,000 | House will need replumbing eventually |
| Furnace at end of life | Moderate | $4,000–$8,000 | Negotiate credit |
| Water heater at end of life | Minor–Moderate | $1,500–$3,000 | Negotiate credit or handle after purchase |
| Missing GFCI outlets | Minor | $200–$500 | Easy fix after possession |
How to use the inspection report in negotiations
| Negotiation Strategy | When to Use It |
|---|---|
| Request a price reduction | Major issues that are not urgent but will need attention (aging roof, old plumbing) |
| Request seller complete repairs before closing | Safety issues (electrical panel, structural) that you want done properly with your inspection |
| Request a credit at closing | Moderate issues where you want to choose your own contractor |
| Accept as-is at reduced price | Multiple minor issues that are predictable costs (aging furnace, old windows) |
| Walk away | Deal-breaking structural, environmental, or financial issues that exceed the value adjustment |
What NOT to negotiate on
Minor cosmetic issues, normal wear and tear, and items that were visible before you made your offer are generally not appropriate to bring back in negotiation. Focus on deficiencies that a buyer could not reasonably discover without a professional inspection.
How to choose a home inspector
| Criteria | What to Look For |
|---|---|
| Certification | Licensed in your province (mandatory in BC, AB, NS; recommended everywhere) |
| Experience | 500+ inspections, experience with the home’s age and type |
| Sample report | Ask for a sample — it should be detailed, photo-documented, and clear |
| Insurance | Errors and omissions insurance (protects you if they miss something) |
| Duration | A thorough inspection takes 2–3 hours for a standard home. Beware of 45-minute inspections. |
| Attend the inspection | Walk through with the inspector — you will learn more in 2 hours than from reading the report |