A home inspection protects you from buying a money pit. But the inspection itself — watching it happen, asking questions, understanding what the inspector sees — is where you learn the most. This guide walks you through the entire inspection process room by room, so you know what to look for, what questions to ask, and how to interpret the results.
Before the Inspection: How to Prepare
| Preparation Step | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
| Confirm the inspector is licensed and insured | Required in Ontario, BC, Alberta — other provinces vary. Check their membership in a recognized association (CAHPI, OntarioACHI, ASTTBC) |
| Schedule immediately after offer acceptance | You typically have 5–7 days to complete the inspection under your APS condition |
| Wear practical clothing | You may go into the basement, attic access area, and around the exterior in all weather |
| Bring a notebook and phone for photos | Document specific issues the inspector points out |
| Review the listing / property disclosure | Note any disclosed defects — the inspector should verify them |
| Arrive on time | Be there from the start; the exterior inspection happens first |
The Inspection Walkthrough: Room by Room
Exterior
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Roof (from ground or ladder) | Shingle condition, flashing, moss/algae, sagging, number of layers | Missing shingles, visible patches, sagging ridge line |
| Gutters and downspouts | Attached, draining away from foundation, no blockages | Overflowing gutters, downspouts dumping water at foundation |
| Siding and exterior walls | Cracks, rot, gaps, paint condition, siding type | Wood rot near windows or at ground level; gaps where pests enter |
| Foundation (visible) | Cracks, efflorescence (white mineral deposits), water staining | Horizontal cracks (most serious), stair-step cracks in brick |
| Grading | Slope away from foundation (minimum 6 inches drop in first 10 feet) | Flat or negative grading = water intrusion risk |
| Windows and doors (exterior) | Caulking, weather-stripping, rot, seals | Fogged double-pane windows (failed seals); wood rot on frames |
| Driveway and walkways | Cracks, heaving, trip hazards | Large cracks or significant settling |
| Deck and balcony | Structure, railing stability, ledger board attachment, rot | Wobbly railings, soft spots in decking, poor ledger connection to house |
Basement / Foundation
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Foundation walls | Cracks, bowing, water staining, efflorescence | Any crack wider than 1/4 inch; horizontal cracks; bowing walls |
| Floor | Cracks in concrete slab, moisture, unevenness | Standing water, damp spots, musty smell |
| Sump pump | Present, operational, discharge location | Does it work? Does it discharge away from the foundation? |
| Waterproofing | Evidence of past water intrusion, weeping tile drain | Staining on walls or floor, dehumidifier running constantly |
| Columns and beams | Structural support condition, rust, wood rot | Rusted steel columns, wood beams with rot or insect damage |
| Insulation | Type (fibreglass, spray foam, vermiculite), coverage, moisture behind | Vermiculite (asbestos risk); wet insulation; missing coverage |
Electrical System
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Main panel | Brand, age, capacity (100A, 200A), breaker condition, signs of overheating | Federal Pacific or Zinsco panels (known fire hazards); scorch marks; double-tapped breakers |
| Wiring type | Copper, aluminum, knob-and-tube | Knob-and-tube (1940s and older) and aluminum wiring (1960s–1970s) need special attention |
| GFCI outlets | Present in kitchens, bathrooms, exterior, garage — code requirement | Missing GFCI in wet areas is a safety issue |
| AFCI breakers | Required for bedrooms in newer builds | Older homes won’t have them — not a deal-breaker but note it |
| Outlets and switches | Grounding, polarity, function | Ungrounded 3-prong outlets (common in older homes); dead outlets |
Plumbing
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Water supply pipes | Material (copper, PEX, galvanized, polybutylene), leaks, corrosion | Galvanized pipes (rust, low pressure) and polybutylene (failure-prone); blue poly (kitec) |
| Drain pipes | Material (ABS, PVC, cast iron, lead), flow rate, leaks | Cast iron (rust through after 50–80 years); slow drains; sewage smell |
| Water heater | Age, type (tank vs tankless), capacity, condition | Age over 10 years (tank) or 15 years (tankless) = near end of life |
| Shut-off valves | Main shut-off works, individual fixture shut-offs present | Corroded or seized valves that don’t turn |
| Water pressure | Measured with gauge (40–80 PSI is normal) | Below 40 PSI = supply issue; above 80 PSI = needs pressure-reducing valve |
| Visible leaks | Under sinks, around toilets, at pipe connections | Active drips, water staining, mold at pipe connections |
HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning)
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Furnace | Age, type, operation, heat exchanger (visual), venting | Age over 15–20 years = near end of life; cracks in heat exchanger = carbon monoxide risk |
| Air conditioning | Age, operation, refrigerant lines, condensate drain | Age over 12–15 years; not cooling during test; ice on lines |
| Ductwork | Connections, insulation, airflow | Disconnected ducts in basement or attic; poor airflow to specific rooms |
| Thermostat | Type, function, calibration | Non-programmable thermostat = energy waste (easy upgrade) |
| Ventilation | Bathroom fans vent to exterior, range hood vents to exterior, HRV/ERV | Bathroom fans venting into attic (moisture damage); no range hood ducting |
| Fireplace / wood stove | Damper operation, firebox condition, clearances | No WETT inspection done (required for insurance); cracked firebox |
Kitchen
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Plumbing | Sink, faucet, supply lines, drain, dishwasher connection, shut-offs | Leaks under sink; poor dishwasher drainage; old supply lines |
| Electrical | GFCI outlets, dedicated circuits for major appliances | No GFCI near sink; insufficient circuits (tripping breakers) |
| Ventilation | Range hood venting to exterior | Recirculating hood (filters air back into kitchen) vs ducted to outside |
| Counters and cabinets | Water damage, soft spots, mold risk areas | Swelling at sink area; mold behind or under cabinets |
| Floor | Condition, water damage, levelness | Soft spots near dishwasher or sink (water damage beneath) |
Bathrooms
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Toilet | Secure to floor, flange condition, flush function | Rocking toilet = damaged wax seal = water damage below |
| Tub / shower | Caulking, tile grout, water damage, drain | Missing or cracked caulk around tub/shower (water penetration behind walls) |
| Ventilation | Exhaust fan present and venting to exterior | No fan or fan venting into attic = moisture and mold risk |
| Plumbing | Supply valve function, water pressure, drain speed | Slow drains; low pressure; no shut-off valves |
| Walls and ceiling | Water stains, bubbling paint, mold | Staining on ceiling below (if upstairs bathroom) = active leak |
Attic
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Roof sheathing (from inside) | Daylight showing through, water stains, mold, rot | Dark staining = past or present leaks; mold on sheathing |
| Insulation | Type, depth/R-value, coverage, vapour barrier | Less than R-50 (code for most of Canada); gaps or compressed insulation |
| Ventilation | Soffit vents, ridge vent, unblocked airflow | Blocked soffit vents = moisture buildup; no ridge or roof vents |
| Structure | Rafters, trusses, condition, modifications | Cut or modified trusses (serious structural concern); sagging |
| Bathroom exhaust | Properly ducted to exterior | Exhaust dumping into attic = major moisture and mold source |
| Vermiculite insulation | Present = potential asbestos (Libby, Montana mine) | Do not disturb; requires professional testing (~$300) before remediation |
Living Areas and Bedrooms
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Windows | Operation, seals, locks, condensation | Fogged units (failed seal); windows that won’t open (egress concern in bedrooms) |
| Walls and ceilings | Cracks, water stains, unevenness | Diagonal cracks at corners of door/window frames = possible structural movement |
| Floors | Levelness, squeaks, soft spots | Significant slope (place a ball — does it roll?) = structural issue |
| Smoke and CO detectors | Present on every level and outside bedrooms | Missing detectors = immediate safety upgrade needed |
| Electrical | Outlets, light switches, ceiling fixtures | Bedrooms require AFCI protection in newer electrical codes |
Major vs. Minor Issues
| Category | Examples | Typical Cost | Action |
|---|---|---|---|
| Structural | Foundation cracks, bowing walls, sagging roof, rotted beams | $5,000–$50,000+ | Negotiate major price reduction or walk away |
| Electrical safety | Knob-and-tube, Federal Pacific panel, no GFCI, aluminum wiring | $3,000–$20,000 | Budget for rewiring; may affect insurance |
| Water / moisture | Active leaks, mold, failed waterproofing, bad grading | $2,000–$30,000 | Remediate before closing or reduce price |
| Roof end of life | 20+ year shingles, multiple layers, active leaks | $8,000–$20,000 | Negotiate replacement credit |
| HVAC end of life | 20+ year furnace, cracked heat exchanger | $4,000–$10,000 | Budget for replacement within 1–3 years |
| Plumbing end of life | Galvanized pipes, polybutylene, cast iron drain | $5,000–$25,000 | Negotiate or budget for repiping |
| Minor / maintenance | Recaulk tub, replace furnace filter, clean gutters, touch up paint | $50–$500 each | Normal; do not renegotiate over these |
How to Read the Inspection Report
| Section | What to Focus On |
|---|---|
| Summary / overview | Read this first — lists all major and safety items |
| Item ratings | Look for “major concern,” “safety hazard,” or “monitor” — skip “maintenance” items |
| Photos | Inspector includes photos of every issue — review all of them |
| Recommendations | “Further evaluation by a licensed [specialist]” = the inspector found something potentially serious but can’t diagnose fully |
| Limitations | What the inspector could not access or see — these are your blind spots |
What to Do After the Inspection
| Inspection Result | Recommended Action |
|---|---|
| No major issues | Waive the inspection condition; proceed to closing |
| Minor issues (maintenance items) | Waive the condition; handle repairs after closing. Do not renegotiate over minor items |
| Moderate issues (roof within 5 years, aging furnace) | Negotiate a price reduction or seller credit equal to the estimated repair cost |
| Major issues (structural, active mold, electrical safety) | Request seller remediation before closing OR significant price reduction ($10,000+) OR walk away |
| Deal-breaker issues (foundation failure, contamination) | Walk away; exercise your inspection condition |
Specialist Inspections to Consider
| Specialist | When to Order | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Mold testing | Visible mold or musty smell detected | $300–$600 |
| Asbestos testing | Vermiculite insulation, pre-1990 building materials | $200–$400 |
| Radon testing | Any home — radon levels vary street by street | $150–$250 |
| WETT inspection | Wood stove, fireplace, pellet stove | $200–$400 |
| Septic inspection | Rural property with septic system | $300–$600 |
| Well water testing | Rural property with well | $100–$300 |
| Sewer scope | Older home (pre-1970) — camera inspects sewer line | $200–$400 |
| Pest / termite | Southern Ontario, BC coastal — or any signs of infestation | $150–$300 |